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Cheese, but Make It Queer

Smithies Create

Photograph by Amelia Moses

BY MEGAN YOUNG ’07

Published June 26, 2023

Bloomy, tangy, nutty. Milky, earthy, funky. Briny, crumbly, gooey. There are so many words to describe cheese, and Round Table Farm in Hardwick, Massachusetts, is seeking to add one more to the lexicon: queer.

Marlo Stein ’17 and Archer Meier ’18 (above) strive to create artisanal cheeses that—like them—resist categorization, defy labels, and smash expectations. Self-described “proud, queer Jewish farmers,” Stein and Meier specialize in the true farm-to-table experience. From pasture to creamery, all of the magic takes place right at the farm. Though inspired by traditional styles of cheeses, Stein and Meier aren’t afraid of a little delicious iconoclasm, relying on their own tastes, preferences, and techniques to push their cheeses in a new direction. Alex Piccarreto, a cheesemonger at Northampton specialty store Provisions, agrees: “They are definitely transformative within the artisanal cheese world, especially for American-style cheeses.” Round Table Farm currently offers four raw cow’s milk cheeses (a $65 sampler is available on the farm’s website), but has recently added goats to their herd with plans to expand their offerings. Whether creamy, sour, or sharp, we know for sure: It’ll be unexpected. 

Round Table Farm
Marlo Stein '17 and Archer Meier '18

This story appears as part of the Smithies Create column in the Summer 2023 issue of the Smith Alumnae Quarterly.